Myanmar: Life under military rule

Intention should not be the sole arbiter of action, I thought it was yet there is more. The outcome of choices cannot be foreseen, the interplay of random events, people far wiser than myself have plotted a course in relation to Myanmar, still I decided to go. I convinced myself that it was ok to go, my own desire for something new, I've travelled to many dictatorships in the same category as Myanmar, other repressive governments, repressive cultures, repressive religions. In the 1998 I wanted to go, but had read Aung San Suu Kyi and heeded the call for a boycott, in 2005 I considered again but decided no. Then this year I went and this is what happened.

When I first arrived in Yangon I met a Burmese man, we got on well, he gave me an introduction to Burmese culture, Buddhism, mohinga, the national dish and took me around Yangon. He asked if I would like to visit a monastery where the Abbot is learning English and is keen to meet foreigners, he warned that they had been involved in the 2007 protests which intrigued me, I asked if it would be safe, he said no problems. We arrived at the monastery, entered and I sat and spoke with some monks whilst my friend went in search of the Abbot. He returned apologetic, the Abbot could not meet with me. About a week before the monastery had been visited by National League for Democracy who had donated food and now there were some problems, we decided it best to leave.

The day after I decided to leave Yangon to travel to a spirit festival, a Nat-Pwe near Mandalay, in the centre of the country. I travelled through the tourist heartland of Myanmar for two weeks then returned to Yangon, I was bored of sights and had made a number of connections with people in Yangon. I returned the day that the verdict in Aung San Suu Kyi's most recent trial was to be handed down. There was a lot of mis-information going round, she had been freed, condemned, only international news had a uniform answer. The following day I met my friend, as he walked gingerly down the street I asked him what he thought of the recent verdict. I did not mention her name, this is a serious mistake in Myanmar, I asked about the lady. He replied that we should go somewhere more discreet, he had a story to tell, we found a place above a noodle store to speak. This is what he told me.

A couple of days after I left he had met with a French man, a pro-democracy activist who was collecting information on the repressive activities of the Burmese government. They had discussed the situation in Myanmar, he had offered to introduce him to some people who could further illuminate the conditions of the people. The French man left, then things started to get serious. My Burmese friend was about to board a bus when a man came up to him and said that he should come with him, if he resisted there would be trouble, two uniformed police arrived and took my friend to the police station.

At the police station they sat him on the ground, they asked him about me and the other foreign man he had met. It transpired that the police had been watching the monastery that we had visited a fortnight before. Since our visit they had been following him, they had seen him meet the French man. The police wanted to know about me, my name, where I was from, what I was doing in the country. My friend replied that I was simply a tourist and he wouldn't give my name, they then hit him in the back with a baton and asked again. He put his hand around to protect his back then the police pulled his legs apart and proceed to smash his balls. They continued to ask him about me, the French man, what we were doing in Myanmar. He kept on telling them a partial truth, I was just a tourist, which I was and the French man, well, he also said he was just a tourist. The police held him for the night. They made him promise on some holy water that he wouldn't engage in political activities, it sounded to me like the equivalent of a Christian making a promise on the Bible. He is a village boy and quite devout, this meant something to both him and the police. The following day some family members and friends had tracked him down to the police station where they paid a bribe to get him released.

Since that day he had to leave his house and was hiding out as a lay person in a monastery.  He had been to the hospital to get his balls looked at, they had been badly beaten, one was swollen and the doctor said he would need an operation to fix it.  Walking, sitting, standing for long periods had all become difficult.  I have paid for his operation yet his situation sits on my conscience.

After he told me this I decided I should leave Myanmar.  I worried about my other Burmese friends, was I been watched, could I cause trouble for them by association?  I felt responsible for what had happened to him. I understood this was not my fault or intention, but it is difficult in this situation not to blame yourself.  My friend said to me that it was simply an unfortunate set of circumstances.   He did not know the police were watching the monastery, if he had know we would not have gone.  Yet still, if we had not met he would be living in his house with his balls in regular shape.  I realise the world is one giant cauldron of causal interactions, maybe something else would have happened to him if we hadn't met, maybe something good will come of this.  I spoke with other Burmese friends about this, they said he should have been wiser, he lives here, he knows what its like.  When he said the monastery had been involved in the 2007 protests I trusted his judgement that it would be safe to go.  I can't help but think to go to Myanmar and interact with the people you are putting them in danger in some way, not everyone, but now one guy has lost his home and has had his balls smashed in.  Aung San Suu Kyi said this years ago, I convinced myself that it was fine to go, she has not re-iterated the tourism boycott since 1995, but she has been under house arrest, she has only been able to get out a few snippets since.

I have travelled to a lot of places, I don't believe the world is static, it never has been, it has always been a giant melting pot, the silk road, all the travellers, the traders, the migrations over the eons.  The human story is one of interaction, this has led to many of the great changes.  My decision to go to Myanmar has brought about no positive outcome, I didn't expect it to, I wasn't seeking it.  I knew about the military from the writings of Aung San Suu Kyi before I decided to go, the people of Myanmar, more than anyone else, know how bad the military government is.  Still the people I met were most welcoming, I made numerous friends, even after the events I have recounted here they still think it was good idea for me to go, they, like all people are interested in people from other lands.  My friend who was beaten is unrepentant, he wants the French man to continue his activities, he wanted me to tell his story.  He wants me to return, as do other people I met there, they have said to me that the people of Myanmar need to have their eyes opened.  I replied that the people already know how bad the military government is.  They tell me that the people think that this sort of government is the norm throughout the world, everyone knows its bad yet they have reluctantly accepted it, the people of Myanmar need to know most of the worlds people live with far greater freedom than they.  If I travel through and tell the tribal people of the situation of their brethren in India and Thailand they will realise it can be different.  Still I am torn, if I have gained anything from this its to try and follow my conscience.

Myanmar is a fabulous place, they have a wonderful culture, the people are between the softness of South East Asia and the friendly intenseness of South Asia.  They have amazing festivals, the syncretism of Buddhism and the spirit worship of Nat, a continuous and intact culture where they have kept their languages, dress and food, the multi-cultural, multi-racial mix of Bamar, Indian, Chinese, and tribal cultures, the loving kindness of Buddhism, a land full of smiles but there is a darkness that overhangs.  When the military are ejected and Myanmar is free I will be there within days, but until then I doubt I will return.

1. Myanmar: Why a military government

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2. Myanmar – Nat Pwe, Spirits, generals and Smiles

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3. Myanmar: Palaung Hill Tribe of Shan state

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